Although Sri Lanka is fairly small, travelling around the island can be time-consuming. The country’s narrow roads – congested with pedestrians, cyclists and trishaws – make travelling challenging at times. The good news is, there are quite a few different ways to gad about. Also, once you leave the hustle and bustle of Colombo behind, you can enjoy easy scenic drives around the coast or in the hill country.
1. Air
Charter flights can be arranged to any destination in Sri Lanka through Deccan Aviation Lanka (www.simplifly.com). Sea planes are another great way to get around; Cinnamon Air offers daily scheduled flights and exclusive charter flights.
2. Rail
Trains connect Colombo with all tourist towns. Don’t expect first-class carriages, air conditioning and dining cars on all routes. New, speedy services operate on the principal routes, including an intercity express service between Colombo and Kandy; the majority of journeys are fairly leisurely. Fares are generally collected by conductors; services are often crowded. The Viceroy Express is the only passenger steam train still in operation in Sri Lanka. Every journey is hauled by a vintage British locomotive aged 50 plus; step on board with help from JF Tours.
3. Road
Good news, Brits: Sri Lankans drive on the left. As usual, flashing lights indicate a driver asserting their right of way.
An extensive network of services to most parts of the island is offered by the Sri Lanka Central Transport Board (www.transport.gov.lk). Long-distance services operate from the Pettah Central Bus Depot in Colombo. One is run by the Sri Lanka Transport Board; the other by private bus companies (the private bus station is near the Central Depot). Buses to the coastal towns depart every half hour – the Kandy service runs every 15 minutes.
2. Taxi
Taxis are marked out by their yellow tops and red-and-white plates. In Colombo, taxis are metered, but it’s wise to agree a rate before setting off. Drivers expect a 10 per cent tip.
3. Trishaws (aka tuk-tuks)
Ideal for short journeys within towns and cities, and for mini excursions, the country’s many trishaws will happily offer you a ride. Most of the vehicles are Indian-made Bajaj rickshaws. Since many of them aren’t metered, it’s best to agree on a fare before you set off. Usually drivers offer a decent fare, charging approximately 50 rupees per kilometre.
4. Car hire
There are several international agencies to pick from, with car hire desks at the airport and in Colombo. Air-conditioned minibuses are also available; motorised rickshaws can be hired in towns and villages. Chauffeur-driven cars are another good option.
Travel tip
Since Sri Lanka’s society is conservative, it’s advisable to dress modestly while travelling, so as to avoid causing offence.